A few shop pics
My forge area ............ there's always a lot going on in
this corner of my shop. I have a 24 ton hydraulic
press, a blown forge and an NC atmospheric forge.
For precise temperature control when annealing,
stress relieving, normalizing and austenitizing I use
my Evenheat kiln. I also have Stick & TIG welding
capability and an Oxy/Actylene torch.
I have a couple of anvils and a post vise set-up to help
me with my forged blades. My 2nd, smaller anvil is
mostly used for hardy work, fullering, hot cutting etc. I
have a good selection of hammers & tongs but I can
always use more.
Below are the machine tools I use in the shop. I have a Bridgeport Mill with a ProtoTrak A.G.E. 2 Control, an Acuu Mill with
a 3 axis Centroid control. A small Jet Lathe for folder pivots and other turning jobs that come up. A Jet Mill/Drill, mostly
used for drilling & boring. A small Drill Press for tapping folder liners, which, for the most part, stays set-up with my
Tapmatic 30X head. An indispensable tool around the shop is my B&S Surface Grinder. Last but not least is my little Jet
Bandsaw. Like the energizer bunny, this guy just keeps going & going ...
Here are a few pics of my grinding bench. Probably the most important tool in my shop is my KMG Blade Grinder. Every blade I make
spends at least some time on this machine. I have a 14", 12", 8" & 4" wheel for various hollow grinding applications. A flat platen
attachment for flat grinds, and a small wheel attachment with 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1-1/4" wheels for getting into those nifty little curves
we all love so much. For convex grinding and handle shaping I have a KMG Roller Platen attachment.................IMHO,  worth it's weight
in gold !
I also have a small snag grinder on the bench for tool grinding. A KMG Flat Disk Grinder, set-up in the horizontal position, and on the
end of the bench, a buffer for shining up handles and blades.
I also included a picture of my grinding belt rack. A Master Bladesmith once told me to use belts like they were free. Well, I do ........ and
at $5-$10 per belt & 5 or more belts per blade, I  wish they were free ..........
To the far right is a pic of my Granite Layout Table, my Height Gauge and my Rockwell Tester. For what it's worth, there is a lot more
to edge retention than a blades Rockwell Hardness. It's just one more tool in my arsenal for bringing the customer the best possible
blade I can make.
Some small tools that help with "details" are found on my etching/anodizing bench. It's where my touchmark is
applied and where I anodize titanium parts that I sometimes use on my knives. I also use NitreBlue bluing salts
for coloring carbon & wrought iron parts. On my main work bench can be found a
multitude of tools for detailed
benching and polishing. A few shown below are my Diprofil, various sanding sticks, diamond paste, various
stones, etc. I literally have an entire bench full of files, sanding papers, tools and attachments for my Foredom
flex shaft, etc. All of them are a very important part of the procedure.
Heat Treat......... in my humble opinion, is the most
important aspect of the knifemakers craft. The
knives primary purpose is to cut things. For that,
the blade needs to take on
and retain a fine edge.  
To insure that my knives meet the high standard
I've set for this detail, I've developed very specific
heat treat procedures for the steels I use. I can only
expect to get repeat results by using precisely
controlled equipment and procedures. For
normalizing, stress relieving, austenitizing and
tempering I use a digitally controlled kiln. For my oil
quench steels I use engineered quenchants, such
as Parks # 50. To eliminate any retained austenite in
the air quench steels that I use I do a cryo cycle
using liquid nitrogen. I have a 30 L Dewar that I keep
on hand for just this purpose.
I try to keep a good selection of materials on hand for handles and inlays. I use everything from mammoth
ivory, pearl, fossil walrus ivory, various colors of micarta and G10, sambar stag and also many species of
stabilized wood. Some of the wood, such as the early 1900's Anvil Stump shown below, I cut myself
.  The
process pictures show rough cutting, splitting the blocks off via a wedge, then squaring to handle size
blocks. All are eventually sent
out for professional stabilizing..I came to find this old anvil stump to be some
of the most beautiful birdseye maple I've ever seen.  When it comes to unique materials, if I don't have it, I
can usually get it.  Just ask.